Pearl knowledge, from the source

The four pearl types at a glance

Virtually every pearl sold today is cultured — grown on a farm with human intervention. What separates the four commercial types is the oyster or mussel, the water it grows in, and the size and character of the nacre it produces.

• Freshwater — grown in mussels, mainly in China. The widest range of sizes, shapes and colours; the best value per millimetre.
• Akoya — the classic round white saltwater pearl with sharp, mirror-like lustre; typically 5–8mm.
• Tahitian — naturally dark body colours from silver to peacock and black; cultivated in French Polynesia, typically 8–14mm.
• South Sea — the largest cultured pearls, in warm white and gold; satiny lustre, typically 9mm and up.

See our full catalogue for what we supply in each type.

How pearls are graded: the A–AAA system

The commercial standard grades a pearl on three criteria, usually on a scale from A to AAA:

1. Surface quality

How clean the nacre is — spots, bumps and drill-hole chips all count against the grade. A AAA surface is virtually flawless to the naked eye; lower grades carry visible marks that may be acceptable for everyday commercial jewellery.

2. Lustre

The sharpness of light reflected off the nacre — the single best indicator of quality (see below).

3. Shape

Roundness and symmetry. Perfectly round pearls are the rarest and command the highest prices; near-round, oval, drop and baroque shapes each have their market.

When we quote, we quote the grade with photographs of the actual goods — so you always know exactly what the grade means in practice.

Lustre: the one thing to check first

Lustre is how sharply a pearl reflects light — and it is the simplest, fastest indicator of quality, because it reflects the thickness and health of the nacre.

• High lustre — reflections are bright and almost mirror-like; you can see distinct shapes in the surface.
• Medium lustre — reflections are visible but soft and hazy.
• Low lustre — the surface looks chalky or dull, with barely any reflection.

Two pearls of the same size and colour can differ several grade steps on lustre alone. When comparing strands, hold them under the same light and look at the sharpness of the reflection — not the shine of any coating.

Real, cultured or synthetic?

Three different things often get mixed together:

• Natural pearls form in the wild without human intervention. They are extremely rare — most on the market today are antiques.
• Cultured pearls are real pearls, grown on farms with human intervention. Virtually every pearl in commerce — including ours — is cultured.
• Synthetic/imitation pearls are man-made beads coated to look like pearls — glass, plastic or shell cores with a surface coating.

A quick at-home test: temperature

Real pearls feel cool to the touch at first and adjust to your body warmth as worn. Synthetic pearls tend to stay at one temperature and feel glassy or waxy.

For valuable strands, ask for a certificate from a recognised gemmological laboratory — that is the only definitive authentication.

Caring for pearls

Pearls are organic — a little care keeps their lustre for decades:

• Last on, first off. Put pearls on after perfume, hairspray and cosmetics; take them off before you start again.
• Wipe after wear. Sweat must be cleaned thoroughly with a soft cloth.
• No bathing or swimming while wearing pearls — chemicals and chlorine attack the nacre.
• Store them wrapped in a soft cloth or pouch, away from other jewellery that may scratch them.
• Never airtight. Do not store pearls in a sealed plastic bag — the nacre needs to breathe.
• Restring periodically — strands worn often should be restrung every year or two.

Buying pearls wholesale: what to specify

The faster we know exactly what you need, the faster you get an accurate quote with photos of the actual goods. When enquiring, specify:

• Pearl type — Freshwater, Akoya, Tahitian or South Sea
• Size range — in millimetres (e.g. 7–8mm)
• Shape — round, near-round, drop, oval or baroque
• Body colour and overtone — e.g. white with rose overtone, gold, peacock
• Drill — full drill, half drill, or undrilled
• Quantity — strands, pieces or loose pearls
• Grade target and budget — tell us the price point and we will match the grade to it honestly

Send this list filled in on WhatsApp — most enquiries get a first quote within one business day.